the first wave

now i can definetly say that i surfed a real nice wave!

beginners have to start with white water ( "onda ja rebentada") and i was doing that for the last 2 months..although some white waves then form again in a green wave but they are smaller...

but enough of that! last saturday there i was at the spit! the waves were around 2 feet that day ( 3feet=1 meter) and it was a good surfing day! it was not very crowded..about 20 guys there

but after a while she came...a nice 2 feet wave formed and i paddled as a crazy and hungry man! stand up and there i was! riding the ocean! hands on the water...feeling all the vibes and the speed of the board below me!

i gotta say..the feeling it's amazing! it's addictive in a good way! it doesnt matter if you are tired or not..in that moment you cant think of anything..just concentrating on the speed and trying to make the best of that wave!

when it's done..another will come!

p.s- sorry i dont have any pics..havent reached that level yet where the photographers will be at the beach waiting for it!